Entire healthy mature pepper plant in a real garden bed, showing growth habit and scale.Primary identification image. 45–90 cm tall, 40–60 cm wide at maturity.

Pepper

Capsicum annuum L.

Also called: Sweet pepper, Bell pepper, Chilli pepper, Capsicum

Family
Solanaceae
Season
Warm-season tender perennial grown as an annual
Best grown in
Portland, Oregon

Slow-starting, heat-loving plants that need a long warm season, steady moisture and a sheltered, sunny spot.

Safety: Hot cultivars contain capsaicin; handle seeds and membranes with care.

Life cycle & growth stages

  1. 1. SeedSow indoors 8–10 weeks before the last frost with bottom heat.
  2. 2. SeedlingEmergence in 10–21 days; grow warm and bright.
  3. 3. TransplantSet out 2–4 weeks after last frost when nights stay above 12 °C.
  4. 4. FloweringSmall white flowers; fruit set pauses in extreme heat.
  5. 5. Developing fruitGreen fruit expands over several weeks.
  6. 6. Harvest readyPick green at full size or wait for colour.
  7. 7. HarvestCut with a short stem; pick regularly.

Growth stages are ordered chronologically; timing varies with cultivar, temperature, light and care.

Planting calendar for Portland, Oregon

Start indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost; transplant 2–4 weeks after last frost; 60–90 days to maturity from transplant. Windows are derived from the region's average frost dates (last Apr 5, first Nov 5) and are estimates until you confirm your own dates in the calendar.

PepperCapsicum annuum
Text version of the planting timeline
PlantStart indoorsDirect sowAutumn sowTransplantTendHarvest
PepperJan 25–Feb 8 (estimate)——Apr 19–May 3 (estimate)May 3–Jun 18 (estimate)Jun 18–Nov 5 (estimate)
  • Start seeds indoors: Jan 25 – Feb 8
  • Transplant outdoors: Apr 19 – May 3
  • Tend and monitor: May 3 – Jun 18
  • Harvest: Jun 18 – Nov 5

Spacing & support

In-row 40–50 cm; rows 60–90 cm. Planner footprint: 2 cells of 30 cm.

Side-profile diagram of mature pepper: canopy 45–90 cm tall, 40–60 cm wide, medium root zone, support and harvest-access envelope.

Soil & water

Soil
Well-drained loam
pH
6–6.8
Fertility
moderate
Water
Even moisture; mulch once soil is warm.
Frost
tender; killed by frost

Support & training

Short stake for heavy fruit. Install at planting so roots are not disturbed later.

Pepper trained on its support: short stake for heavy fruit.

Harvest signs

  • Firm, glossy fruit at full cultivar size
  • Full colour if growing for ripe fruit
  • Cut rather than pull to protect brittle branches
Pepper at harvest readiness, showing the visual cues: firm, glossy fruit at full cultivar size; full colour if growing for ripe fruit.

Common problems

Pests: aphids, flea beetles, pepper weevil (warm regions)

Diseases: bacterial leaf spot, blossom end rot (physiological), Verticillium wilt

Appearance alone is not a diagnosis; confirm with a regional extension guide.

Side-by-side: healthy pepper leaf or fruit and an example of bacterial leaf spot.

Container growing

  • Minimum 15 L (30 cm deep)
  • Use quality potting mix and water more frequently
Mature pepper in a correctly sized container (15 L or more) with drainage visible.

Companion overview

5 reviewed relationship records (evidence: low).

Supported or conditional

None reviewed

Avoid or separate

None with evidence

Traditional claims only: Basil.

4 popular pairings reviewed with no verified relationship.

Full companion profile

Crop rotation

Avoid planting pepper or other nightshade family crops in the same spot for 3 years. Rotation is about previous seasons, not about live neighbours.

Year 1Year 2Year 3SolanaceaeOther familyOther familyback after 3+ years

Shared risks in Solanaceae: late blight (Phytophthora infestans), early blight, Verticillium and Fusarium wilts.

Crop rotation hub

Sources, reviewer & update

Sources

Reviewer: Garden Planner editorial team (pending independent horticultural review)

Last reviewed: August 15, 2026 · version 1

Found an error or have feedback? Let us know.

Growing pepper

Peppers germinate slowly and need the earliest indoor start of the common vegetables, 8–10 weeks before the last frost, ideally with bottom heat. They are even more cold-sensitive than tomatoes: transplant only when nights are reliably above 12 °C (55 °F).

Pepper seed beside a ruler or coin for scale.
Pepper seedling at cotyledon and first-true-leaf stage, in soil, distinguishable from common weeds.
Immature fruit of pepper developing on the plant.

Sweet peppers take 60–90 days from transplant to green maturity and another 2–3 weeks to colour fully. Plants are compact, which makes them suitable for containers of at least 15 litres, but heavy fruit loads can snap branches, so a short stake or small cage is worthwhile.

Two or more mature pepper plants with a tape measure showing in-row spacing (40–50 cm).
Pepper flower detail or bolting stage.
Immature fruit of pepper developing on the plant.

Flowers drop in extreme heat or cold and fruit set pauses above about 32 °C (90 °F). Blossom end rot appears with irregular watering. Peppers share wilts and flea beetles with other nightshades, so rotate them with tomato, potato and eggplant as one group.

Edible parts and safety

Edible: fruit. Hot cultivars contain capsaicin; handle seeds and membranes with care.

Hands or tool harvesting pepper correctly (cut, pull, twist or pick) without damaging the plant.

Pests and diseases

Common pests: aphids, flea beetles, pepper weevil (warm regions). Common diseases: bacterial leaf spot, blossom end rot (physiological), Verticillium wilt. These vary by region; a photograph is an example, not a diagnosis. See the pest and disease guides and your local extension service.

aphids on pepper, with a wider damage-context view.

Timeline

Season timeline for pepper: sowing, transplanting, flowering, harvest and bed occupancy aligned to frost dates.Text alternative: Start seeds indoors Jan 25–Feb 8; Transplant outdoors Apr 19–May 3; Tend and monitor May 3–Jun 18; Harvest Jun 18–Nov 5.

Related plants

See also: Solanaceae family page · crop rotation · regional calendar · guides

Our Methodology & Sources

We synthesize peer-reviewed research, university extension publications, and trusted horticulture resources. Our evidence levels help you understand how strong the science is behind the guidance.

Evidence tiers

Supported evidenceConsistent results from multiple robust studies
Traditional claimHistorical use reported, limited scientific support
Context dependentMixed or variable results across conditions
No verified relationshipNo reliable evidence identified

Primary source types

  • Peer-reviewed journal articles
  • University extension publications
  • Government & research institute reports
  • Systematic reviews & meta-analyses

Last updated

August 24, 2026

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